Introduction to Kalbarri Western Australia

Kalbarri, more than any other resort town in Western Australia, is perfectly suited for the individual, couple or family looking for a variety of options for their holiday.

Put on your leisure wear, add a bit of vitality, and it won’t be long before those great vacation memories begin stacking up. Do your favourite thing or try something new. You will find it all in Kalbarri.

The Kalbarri National Park abounds with potential and is one of the most exciting and spectacular in Western Australia. Water sports on the lower reaches of the Murchison River are many and varied, too. Offshore, the marine life is without rival. Dolphins and whales frequent the coastal fringe and fishing is excellent throughout the year.

Most of the reasonably priced tours on offer include the National Park. Where entry fees, safety gear and everything else you need to enjoy yourself to the fullest is available. Some operators even include snacks or meals.

Details of most tours and activities are available from the Kalbarri Visitor Centre, which also has credit card and EFTPOS facilities and daily booking information.

While you might feel like Kalbarri is your own special holiday discovery, it might interest you to know that it has been a popular relaxation destination for well over 150 years.

The abundance of clean, pure fresh water made it an ideal respite for early Cornish miners. Their leases were right in the Murchison River bed, upstream of what is now the National Park. They were subject to periodic flooding from distant cyclonic rains. Once closed, the mines could take weeks to dry out. So it was off to the coast for well earned R&R.

While you may not have nearly as much time as a Cornish miner, you do have the advantage of good, all-weather roads and plenty of amenities on arrival. From the daily newspaper to a whole variety of new and established shops and services there is little you will miss out on during your holiday.

An excellent range of groceries, ice and bait are available throughout the town; camping supplies, too. You can find a unique gift for that special friend, make a fashion statement, spoil yourself rotten or even tie the knot!

Welcome to Kalbarri

Kalbarri is blessed with a unique marine environment and it won’t take too long to see this for yourself… clean, safe beaches side by side with penultimate surfing breaks; towering sandstone cliffs bordering coastal reef fringes; and, thanks to a warm offshore current, Kalbarri exhibits both tropical and subtropical species of marine life in abundance.

Take it all in on an organised tour or use your own transport. Go by boat, take a scenic flight, trek the cliff tops or cycle to the lookouts. Try a little of each or do it all.

The weather is great all year round, the marine life amazing and the coastline is spectacular and without rival.

Information, literature, bookings and National Park Passes are available at the Kalbarri Visitor Centre in Grey Street.

Please visit the Kalbarri Visitor Centre - www.kalbarri.org.au (creators of this script and the current KYLI Holiday Planner for 2010).

Coastal route into Kalbarri is a scenic delight

For years, all but the most adventurous four-wheel driver had to be satisfied with just one route into Kalbarri. However, all that changed in June 2000 with the opening of a new all-weather sealed southern access road.

For locals and visitors alike, this is an opportunity to experience safe motoring with unparalleled scenery. It is a journey to be enjoyed.

The road link leaves the North-West Coastal Highway at Northampton and is well marked as the alternative and scenic route to Horrocks, Port Gregory and Kalbarri. For caravanners, probably its biggest advantage is the lack of all that road train traffic so prevalent on the main highway (NB I added Horrocks because it is on the sign at Northampton).

After Northampton, the road winds through rolling hills and breakaways country which you only get a hint of when you are on the main highway. You can experience some of the most picturesque grazing land in the Mid West, and its peaceful look and lazy pace quickly sets the mood for your holiday in Kalbarri.

The road then works its way down to the coastal strip, and a side trip to Port Gregory is well worth the effort. There you will find a caravan park, chalets and a small fishing fleet in the lobster season.

The townsite goes back a long way and was the original shipping port for the region’s lead mines. History abounds, and up in the foothills you can see the old convict ruins and the Governor’s mansion. Their restoration is an ongoing project of the local historical society, and they are well worth a visit.

A few more kilometres on, you pass one of Australia’s few garnet mines, with its burgundy-coloured mineral deposits in the west, the colour spills over to the pink lake, a Beta-Carotene Algae farm capitalising on the warm sunny days which produce this much sought-after dietary supplement in abundant quantities.

The road then rises into the hills in the east, with spectacular views of the coastal dunes and the sea beyond. This is the area known as Lucky Bay and Wagoe Beach, a long kept secret of locals looking for an escape and a bit of adventure.

You’ll find a number of tours available in Kalbarri which take in the spectacular scenery of the dunes from close-up, and a day trip to Lucky Bay and Wagoe is well worth the time.

The last 20 kilometres is through the National Park, with glimpses of Kalbarri and the Murchison River off in the distance. Any time of the year it is beautiful, with the wildflower season being truly exceptional, and as you descend to the town, you will already feel yourself slipping into holiday mode.

Pelican Feeding

Each morning at 8.45am, head to the grassed area between the river mouth and the Visitor Centre for your chance to feed the Pelicans.
Find out more about these majestic birds as you throw them a morning snack.

The Murchison River

Ah, that special river. So unique, so pristine, so much a part of the Kalbarri experience. The Murchison is very much the reason for Kalbarri’s existence, for unlike any other river on the Mid West coast, the Murchison is alive, vital and without a doubt, spectacular. Its catchment area is bigger than some Australia States.

At rest its gorges are a scenic delight. In flood its power is awesome. During winter rains it rivals a Garden of Eden. In the dead heat of summer it is a means of survival for native and feral animals alike.

Only a few million years young, it has carved a gorge through the ancient and spectacular Tumblagooda Sandstone. The contrast of brownish red and purple against bands of white, is one of the wonders of the National Park, and draws thousands of visitors each year. Its banded sandstone layers are rich with trace fossils dating back to the very dawn of life.

Today the Murchison is home to Eagles, Songbirds and Wetland Waders alike – nearly 200 species, if you care to count them, and they attract as many “birdos” every year as the wildflowers do their own enthusiastic. Emus sip from the river’s edge; Sea Eagles pluck its abundant fish life, dozens of Black Swans breed in its shallow pools.

Its tidal reaches abound in fish – bream, whiting, mulloway and much more. It is also home to Blue Manna’s, Mud Crabs and untold shell life throughout the year. Whales frequent the entrance and Dolphins play in the lower reaches, chasing fat Mullet in to the anchorage.

The Murchison is here for you to enjoy. This is a river you can explore to your heart’s delight. It is the centrefold of the trek you will always remember, the canoe trip you will never forget. The connection is almost spiritual. Wade the shallows, take in a sunset from an inner beach and enjoy the evening’s reflection from the sidewalk café. See it in the autumn mist; watch it shimmer in the summer midday heat. Give is a chance and it just might become your reason for being here too.

Kalbarri National Park

The many and varied features of Kalbarri National Park provide visitors with an array of things to see and do.

Marvel at nature’s ability to carve the landscape. Explore the depths and heights of the river gorges and sea cliffs. Admire the floral beauty of the vast, rolling sand plains. Discover the intriguing cultural history of the area.

Comfort and Safety

Easy access is provided to many stunning lookouts but beyond that, walkers need to be prepared and very aware of the natural hazards and their safety.

Heat stroke can kill: Summer temperatures can be extremely high in the river gorges. Often 10 degrees hotter than in town, so wear a hat and loose fitting clothing and carry plenty of drinking water. Walk in the early morning or late afternoon.

Water: Drinking water is not available in the National Park, so always carry your own supply. During hot conditions it is recommended that you allow 3 to 4 litres of water per person per day.

Coast and Cliff Risk Area: Stay clear of cliff edges and overhangs. Keep to paths and lookouts where provided. Beware of slippery rocks and big seas.

Clothing and Footwear: Sturdy footwear, a hat, sunscreen and fly nets (available at local supermarkets and post office) are essential ingredients to help make your National Park visit a happy and safe one. NB repellents don’t work.

Roads: The roads to the parks coastal sites are sealed. The road into the inland gorge sites at Hawk’s Head and Ross Graham have also been sealed. Park roads to the Loop and Z-Bend remain unsealed but are suitable for all traffic.

We don’t recommend campervans to travel on this road, please check with the visitor centre for current road conditions.

The Lookout (Nature’s Window)

Several lookouts are positioned around The Loop to provide different views of the winding gorge below. A key attraction is Nature’s Window, a natural rock arch that superbly frames the upstream view, and is a 400-metre walk from the carpark. For those eager for adventure, the 8km Loop Walk Trail beginning and ending at Nature’s Window, provides an unforgettable gorge experience.

Nature's Window and The Loop

River Gorges

The rugged terrain and relative seclusion of the Murchison Gorge attracts thousands of visitors each year. Short walks provide moderate easy access to lookouts along the river gorge at the Loop, Z-Bend, Hawk’s Head and Ross Graham Lookout.

River Gorge Hikes

For those with greater levels of fitness and experience, there are many gorge hiking options available – from one-day excursions to 4 or 5 day extended hikes. Further information about these hikes is available from the National Park Headquarters Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) Office and it is a strict requirement that all overnight groups register with Park staff before making the trip.

Hawk’s Head

Enjoy the views from the picnic area or wander down the newly constructed wheelchair accessible path to the new lookout above the river.

Ross Graham Lookout

This site provides the easiest place in the park to access the river, with a short walk from the carpark bringing you to the tranquillity of the shaded river’s edge.

Z-Bend

A 500-metre walk from the Carpark brings you to the most breathtaking scenery in the National Park. From the safety of the lookout, the gorge plunges 150 metres to the river below where majestic river Redgums provide a lush contrast to the earthy hews of the Tumblagooda Sandstone.

Wildflower Wonderland

Beginning in late June, the dry, parched sandplain heath of Kalbarri National Park visually erupts into a lush Garden of Eden. From then until the end of November (a full five months!) nearly 800 species of West Australian native wildflowers will progressively burst into bloom for the entire world to see.

If you are fortunate enough to time your visit with the wildflower season, you couldn’t do better than to phone ahead of stop at the Kalbarri Visitor Centre for the latest information. They receive constant updates from the local guides as to which flowers are currently blooming and where they can be found.

The Visitor Centre also serves as a booking agent for the specialty wildflower tours run each season and can advise you on departure times, length of tour and special features. You couldn’t do better than to start your wildflower search right from the centre of town!

Remember… all wildflowers are protected under state law and it is an offence to pick them.

Coastal Gorges

Coastal Cliffs

From Red Bluff, named by Willen de Vlamingh in 1697, spectacular coastal cliffs extend 13km to the Park’s southern boundary and offer panoramic views, Whale watching sites and secluded beaches.

Mushroom Rock Walk Trail

See how nature has shaped this dramatic coastal landscape. Marvel at the varied geological formations and witness Kangaroos feeding (best seen dawn and dusk) amidst the beautiful coastal heath. Allow an hour to stroll the marked circuit that connects Rainbow Valley and Mushroom Rock.

Island Rock and Natural Bridge

As the coastline slowly yields to the force of the ocean, the fracturing and decaying of the cliffs sculpt some rather precarious rock formations. Spectacular views can be enjoyed from the safety of the lookout enclosures. Wheelchair accessible picnic shelter and toilets have also been newly constructed.

Pot Alley & Eagle Gorge

Both sites provide stunning coastal scenery and stepped paths to secluded beaches.

Wittecarra Creek

South of the Kalbarri township is Wittecarra Creek – thought to be marooning site of Dutch sailors punished for their part in the Batavia mutiny at the Abrolhos Islands in 1629. Wittecarra is today a popular fishing spot.

Red Bluff

Red Bluff heralds the start of the coastal gorges and is well known for its scenery, snorkelling and fishing. Red Bluff also boasts white a sandy beach, ideal for swimming.

Jacques Point

Jacques (Jakes) is renowned among surfers for its superb reef break. Waves break along the point, meaning spectators on the beach can gain close up views of the surfing action. Jacques Bay offers a safer wave for less experienced surfers and white sandy beaches for sun lovers.

Tours & Charters

Kalbarri has any number of exciting ways in which you can explore the town and the surrounding National Park, either on your own or as part of a group. You can relax in the comfort of a coach or a 4WD vehicle as you take in the delights of the gorges or the colourful carpet of wildflowers. You can paddle the mighty Murchison River in a canoe, or sit back and watch the spectacular scenery go gliding by from the deck of a river cruiser, or if you are feeling more adventurous, you can try some abseiling or an adrenalin charged, off-shore adventure reaching speeds up to 80km/hour.
Whatever takes your fancy. You’ll love it!

Kalbarri's Wildflowers

Whale Watching

The seasonal migration of humpback whales bring them close to the Kalbarri shoreline in winter and spring. The best vantage points are to be found high above the water at sites such as Natural Bridge, Eagle Gorge and Red Bluff.

Fishing

Kalbarri boasts some of the best, easily accessible, all-year round shore and boat angling between Perth and Exmouth. Deep water adjacent to the shoreline and the cliffs provide an environment where anything is possible.

Tailor and Mulloway are the main targets for shore anglers. However, Whiting, Gardies, Dart, Samson Fish, Herring, Small Threadfin Salmon, Skipjack, Trevally, Black-tipped Whaler Shark and various reef fish such as Snapper, Jewfish, Groper and Cod are all encountered within close proximity to Kalbarri.

Anglers have also been delighted with catches of Tuna, Spanish Mackerel, Cobia and Dolphin Fish.

Estuary fishing can yield Whiting, Mulloway and occasionally Chopper Tailor and at times both Blue Swimmer and Mangrove Crabs frequent the Murchison River. Further upstream (accessed by dinghy or 4WD) the reward for patience may come in the form of some good-sized Black Bream.

Please remember that most of the reefs and rocky shoreline can be dangerous under rough conditions. Do not take unnecessary risks. Also, the river mouth can be hazardous under certain conditions. Please check with local Voluntary Marine Rescue if you are unsure.

Search more of our Kalbarri Clips

Accommodation

Accommodation has always been an integral part of the Kalbarri holiday experience and this is as true today as any time in the past. Whatever your holiday style or budget, you are in for a treat.

If you are a camper or caravan traveller, Kalbarri is where you will make new friends from across the country and around the world. It is a place where people who love to travel meet in the well-appointed caravan parks scattered across the town and along the coast.

It is also a place where individuals, couples and families can stay in safe, clean, well appointed bed and breakfasts, lodges or holiday villas with lots of room for everyone. It is where fishers, trekkers and flower enthusiasts alike seek comfortable respite from the day’s adventures. Near to town, near to the beach and near to your heart by holiday’s end.

For those wanting to spoil themselves there is much on offer too. Here’s a chance to let someone else take care of the domestic duties while you enjoy quality hotel, motel or resort accommodation. Lap the pool, swing a club or relax with a good book. This is laid-back holiday mode at its best.

Whatever your choice of budget and style for the next holiday, booking in advance is always wise, even in the low season. Twelve months in advance for peak periods is wise also. Much new accommodation has been built in anticipation of visitors coming by the new access road and your choice is bigger and better than ever.

The Kalbarri Visitor Centre can assist with all holiday accommodation needs, seven days a week!

Wining & Dining

The Western Rock Lobster Fishery of Kalbarri accounts for about one tenth of Western Australia’s total catch and is a vital part of the local economy.

Considered a delicacy all over the world, Kalbarri Lobster is available from a number of venues around town and in season this can mean only minutes from the sea to your table.

Most Kalbarri restaurants feature fresh seafood daily and whether it is Lobster or a good old fish ‘n’ chips, you can be sure you are in for a culinary delight.

Dining in Kalbarri is an essential part of the holiday experience.

All restaurants offer light or substantial meals throughout the day and well into the evening. Dress is universally casual; menus and ambience vary greatly.

General Information

Kalbarri is a pleasant 45-minute ride off the North West Coastal Highway. The way in from the north or south is on sealed surface and is very scenic whichever way you enter. Seasonal rains or the flooding of the Murchison River does not affect access to the town from the highway. Tune to 88fm Tourist Radio for town information.

Kalbarri tours, attractions, accommodation houses and restaurants are in operation throughout the year. Except for school holidays or local festivals, accommodation is seldom booked out, but calling in advance is always wise. Consult the current paperback Kalbarri You’ll Love It! - Holiday Planner available in all West Australian Visitor Centres for accommodation, or contact the Kalbarri Visitor Centre directly.

Warning: I have just returned from the latest of a series of Kalbarri visits. This was the first time I have encountered Sand Fleas/Sand Flies. Most of our time, over twelve days, we were near water on sandy beaches and river beds. We were never conscious of being bitten but after several days we began to suffer the most appalling itching. It was seriously painful and sleep became almost impossible.

Our Doctor had no doubt that these were sand fly bites. Relief for the itching was easy, painless and cheap. But we had not immediately gone to the Doctor and in searching the Internet we had become confused. The internet led us to worry about whether we had been bitten by Fleas or Flies but the range of other potential causes included truly alarming things like Hives, Scabies and Bed Bugs. It is a sad reality that people who are experiencing a level of discomfort like ours often leap to the wrong conclusion and make unwarranted and damaging accusations.

Anyone taking a holiday on coastal plains, in warm parts of Australia should visit their pharmacist before leaving home and keep in their glovebox any of the cheap and very effective medications which quickly relieve the miserable discomfort of sand-fly bites.

On holiday you just don't want to know about worries like these.     [Visual Tour Brochure]

Please visit the Kalbarri Visitor Centre
www.kalbarri.org.au
(creators of this script and the current KYLI Holiday Planner for 2010).

All photography by David Belfield